The ship, the M.V. Mahabaahu was waiting for embarkation in the village of Neamati Ghat forty minutes from the small Jorhat airport in the Northeast Indian state of Assam. A winding tree-lined road led to the river’s edge. Some years earlier I had crossed the Brahmaputra by bridge and it only took two minutes. Now the steely grey river felt immense and powerful, and I connected to it on an emotional level. This revered expanse of water, whose name means "son of Brahma", originates at sacred Mt. Kailash, Tibet, and flows for 2900 kilometers to empty into the Bay of Bengal at Bangladesh.

Two moments in time led me to this place. One was a screening of Jean Renoir’s 1951 movie The River, and the other, a meeting with the ship’s owner during his visit to British Columbia. He showed me images of the islands, shorelines, cultures and wildlife of areas where no major roads reach. He convinced me of its value, and I then convinced eight other travelers to join me.

It was late afternoon when we boarded. We remained in dock, for the night brings constant change to the islands and channels creating dangers that prohibit navigation after dusk. I was happy with the delay as it permitted a pre-dawn walk the next morning to with sightings of diverse birdlife and a glimpse of rural living for a handful of families who cultivate small family plots along the banks of the village. Those who did not walk, started the day with Yoga before cast off.

Early in the voyage we reach Majuli, a large river island where a cross section of modern and ancient Assamese cultures co-exist. We observed rites of passage rituals at the monastery, watched dances performed to the rhythms of drums, and smelled the fragrance of flowering plants.

On another spot along the river, we happened upon dancers from nearby tea plantations who were competing with rival dances from nearby tea companies. There were noticeable differences in the traditional dress of the Assamese dance groups distinguishing communities and plantations. Tea culture is quite prevalent, for it was in Assam back in 1823 that a wild tea plant was discovered. Praises of its properties spread quickly, with cultivation and processing starting a decade later. Two centuries later, Assam tea is highly sought after world-wide. One or even two excursions to the tea plantations are planned during the week-long cruise and include riding in jeeps into the highlands. Etched forever in my memory will be delicious open-air lunches and sipping on the local brew which can be described as strong, pure, and flavourful.

Every half day brought another shore excursion, and more insight into the cultures who have woven their existence into the ebb and flow of the river. A Jute mill whose history was older than any of its visitors captivates me and provided new appreciation for fibre packaging. A trip to Sibsagar connected us to the ancient city of the Ahom Kings where a handful of well-preserved ruins include a Palace, and an entertainment complex for Ahom Royals. Visiting a number of living cultures were other memorable encounters. At a Mishing village, raised platform houses would provide security when rising monsoon water levels necessitate an escape route for the new flows. The Mishing survive by hunting, fishing and income from their weavings. We were greeted by women showing off their Muga raw silk saris, although a bounty of less authentic cloth has infiltrated the impromptu marketplace that quickly appears once a week when the 46 passenger ship disembarks.

For me, a highlight were the two days navigating the river banks on the edge of Kaziranga National Park. As we neared the Eastern ranges of the park, someone spoted a one-horned rhinoceros in the grasses. We reached a tributary (Dhansiri) and took two small motor-boats to safari in the narrower channels leading into the park. The rhino populations have increased here in recent years owing in large part to the conservation efforts to lift rhinoceros and tiger populations, and in doing so protect habitat for wild boar, water buffalo, Asian elephants, swamp deer, and hog deer. By boat, elephant, and jeep, we see all of them with the exception of the Bengal Tiger. (although a Bengal Tiger was observed in the park on my separate visit to Kaziranga in 2023 along with the Great Indian hornbill and all the parks species of deer, and several primates).

While the off-ship activities were what attracted me to the cruise, it was the on-board activities that I hadn’t realized would be so enjoyable. This was no ordinary bed for the night, but rather an ultra-comfortable, twenty-three cabin (half with balconies) expedition hotel with scrumptious dining, a large sun deck and an Ayurveda Spa. And in the evenings there were social activities that built community among the guests, most notably a deserted island bonfire, BBQ and cocktail under an Assamese night sky. So many hours calmed by the quiet hum of the engine as the ship passed areas of undisturbed lands, floating vegetational rafts, the odd river dolphin, and a handful of rivercrafts delivering people and goods.

My week on the Brahmaputra electrified a new passion in me for river ways of life. So much so that this I have put the week-long Kerala Backwaters cruise operated by the same company aboard the nine cabin MV Vaikundam on my bucket list.

Some of the Great River Cruises/Waterways available in Asia
KERALA BACKWATERS, South India (2 - 8 days)
BRAHMAPUTRA, Northeast India (5 – 8 days)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6R6Ri52m9kc

MEKONG, Laos – Cambodia – Vietnam (2 – 7 days)
AYERWADDY aka IRRAWADDY, Myanmar (2 – 7 days)
https://www.pandaw.com/expeditions/irrawaddy

As a destination specialist for India for over three decades, feel free to contact me to ask a question about traveling to India. I am also happy to connect you to expert local operators who can book crises, experiences, accommodation, flights and transfers.