Sept. 3: BC Ferries Cruise Prince Rupert - Skidegate and Daajing Giids
The M/V Northern Adventure provides regular ferry service between Prince Rupert and Skidegate, in the Haida Gwaii archipelago. Alternatively one can fly in to Sandspit or Masset airport. Our bus driver, BACKED onto the ferry, yes backed on. Not just him – every car, camper and truck. We were the last vehicle to back on, and then first to get off.

The seven-hour cruise crosses 93 nautical miles through the Hecate Strait, a channel of water that is often rough – but not today – not our day – it was SMOOTH sailing. The morning fog was announced by horn and low visibility for the first two hours of the voyage. Then, glorious sun for the remainder of the sail. More than half the group sat on the back of the sun deck or on benches on the sunny starboard side of the boat. Others played games in the various lounges and ate at the Coastal Cafe.

Smiles were everywhere; the mood was infectious.

A highlight was a group get together with everyone introducing themselves. We came from four Canadian Provinces with the majority from Manitoba, and became more of a community during this period as we found out where we all come from, what we had most enjoyed about the trip thus far, and what would be the most exciting anticipations for the Haida Gwaii portion of the tour. Everything from culture, nature, education, fishing, birdwatching, photographic opportunities, food, and so much more were mentioned.

Sea Raven Motel check-in followed by a stroll along the shore across the road. Many found themselves at the J & T’s, a Chinese food restaurant by the hotel for dinner.

Sept. 4: Daajing Giids
A most scrumptious breakfast at the Eagle Rock Restaurant overlooking the sparkling waters and forested mountains of Daajing Giids.

The group had three glorious hours at the Haida Heritage Centre at Kay’Linagaay. Half of our group – took a tour of the outer totem poles and carving shed with Reana, an exceptional young Haida woman whose passion is museum curation. While that group were outside in the sunshine (75 degrees F), the others had time to visit the impressive self-guided Skidegate Museum displays which carried on from room to room to room to room, leaving each and everyone in awed silence. There was also time in a well-stocked gift shop before the Raven’s and the Orcas reversed roles.

A tasty lunch back at the Eagle Rock, followed by FREE TIME.

Seven passengers went to the Co-op Grocery store. The store is brand new, and pricing is comparable to the mainland, with a great selection of produce, meat, and grocery products. The seven were excited to meet Garner Moody, who carved all the totem poles at the Heritage Centre they had just been to. He also creates unique jewelry that starts at $240 and goes up to $ 2,500 with high demand from all over the world. 

Gifts and souvenirs are making luggage heavier for the way home including a few items from Charlisle’s, the oldest shop in town.

Fortune was on our side to be in Daajing Giids for the open mic summer Friday Local music scene in Spirit Square. Three quarters of the group came down to hear some of the ten musical acts. Fan favourite was Vanity Radio, a polished singing duo whose melodic synthwave sound echoed over the concrete amphitheatre overlooking a sun setting water.

The night finished with an equally polished performance by a female singer with a guitar.

Sept. 5: Port Clements and Tllel
A full day exploring two settlements on Graham Island. We picked up our guide Dale at Bayview market in Port Clements and were introduced to the logging culture and farming culture (Mennonite) of the region. Before leaving the market, we were treated to leaping salmon in the Yakoun River. How fortunate to be in Haida Gwaii when the salmon were running.

A 2-hour forest walk with Dale gave us a deeper understanding and connection to the rich biodiversity of the Golden Price Trail. Signs along the trail added to the interpretive and our understanding. We learned about the loss of the Golden Spruce, the effects of the vandalism on Haida grief, and reasons why any person could have chopped down the magnificent tree. Later we stopped the bus and looked on to a church where a sapling from the original Spruce tree is being grown with the hope that in fifty to one hundred years, a future golden spruce descent might take its place in the forest.

Port Clements Pioneer museum was a wonderful spot for a picnic lunch as well as a site for understanding the areas logging, mining, fishing, and pioneer history.

Shopping – always welcomed – took place at two of the area’s studio – Crystal Cabins and Sitka Studio.

For the rest of the afternoon, we were taken around by James, our Haida guide. WOW – what an incredible experience that was. We dipped our hands in the waters of St. Mary’s Spring – a shrine by the roadway, visited balance rock – visible at low tide, and walked along the golden sands of ‘Jungle Beach’. Some touched the water while others took off their shoes and felt the coolness of the ocean. Many sat on driftwood stumps and fallen logs overlooking the ocean and contemplating their good fortune to be in Haida Gwaii at that moment.

The touring day finished with a visit to Skidegate Village to see a few of the settlement’s memorial totem poles, the longhouse and drive by the homes in the village.

Half the group went to a Haida Feast in the home of Roberta, one of the archipelago’s distinguished elders. Thank you, Roberta, Jeff (the chef), and the servers. We were able to taste the bounty of the sea!

Sept. 6: Old Masset / Naikoon Ecological Reserve
The WHOLE day with James the wonder-guide!

Morning drive to the Northern tip of Graham Island and a visit to Old Masset, one of the cultural epicentres of Haida Gwaii. It was hard, almost impossible to extract people from the traditional and well-stocked Sarah’s gift shop.

Between Old Masset town and New Masset there were many totems, murals, carvings, long houses, and interesting homes of important clan members.

Freshly caught halibut was enjoyed for lunch at Ocean House overlooking the river followed by an afternoon at Naikoon Provincial Park. As many of the sites in the park are tide dependent, our program was timed with the rhythms of the sea.  

Moss festooned trees, a memorial totem at Heillen villages, Agate beach, the Tow Hill boardwalk (1 kilometer easy walk each way), and the blow hole are all special features of the Nailoon ecological reserve and appreciated by the group. There were many benches along the boardwalk leading to the Tow Hill/Blowhole/beach viewpoint so folks could go as far as they wanted to.

Buses can not go on the beach, but cars can at the right tide and a couple of vehicles were observed driving on the beach. ).

We were fortunate to have low time and weather on our side and ended up spending a bit longer here as the group got totally excited and scattered leaving Catherine and James to do a bit of friendly chasing.  Seniors behaving like children in a candy shop – it was awesome to see!

Some intrepid climbers in the group ventured up Taaw Tldáaw, also known as Tow Hill - a volcanic hill at the North end of the Naikoon Peninsula. The feat was remarkable as it added an extra kilometer on incline to the walk. Their photos from the high vantage point were stunning.

Just outside Masset, a stop was made at mile zero of highway 16 – viewed on the highway from the bus.

The Orca clan, our second group, attended the Haida feast tonight.

Sept. 7: Haida Gwaii - Prince Rupert
A seven-hour BC ferries cruise was a relaxing finish to the time in Haida Gwaii. The hours were spent sleeping, reading, dining, and watching the marine scene unfold.

A dozen small coast guard boats on a drill, a few super tankers, and an Alaska bound cruise ship greeted us.

Several passengers got a thrill then a Humpback whale fluked its tail and later breached right out of the water 2 ½ hours from Prince Rupert.

The Crest waterfront hotel was a glorious reward for the evening’s slumber.