Photo: Lake Palace Hotel, Udaipur

A great three-week plan: Delhi –  Agra – Fatehpur Sikri – Bharatpur (Koeladeo Bird Sanctuary) – Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve - Jaipur – Pushkar – Udaipur – Jodhpur – Jaisalmer

I suggest further research on a website like Rajasthan Tourism, then tweak for your personal interest and time availability. Lastly, select a host company for your adventure. If you don’t have one, reach out to me and I would be happy to connect you to an excellent one.

Best time to travel: October to March with drier and warmer days and nights. There are many festivals and you could shift your route to include one, or to avoid one if you prefer lighter crowds.

Where to stay: Palace hotels, heritage hotels (havelis), or seek out three-star hotels with good reputations for budget-friendly travel.

Photo: Desert culture and landscape

Delhi is the closest gateway to Rajasthan and a perfect starting point. The most impressive sites are in Old Delhi and includeRaj Ghat - black marble memorial to Mahatma Gandhi and other leaders of India. With the right guide, it can be a great history lesson and introduction to the Nation.

• Red Fort – drive by to appreciate it’s beauty. Save an on-foot visit to the other Red Fort in Agra which is smaller, more manageable, and nicely preserved.
• Jama Masjid - India’s largest mosque. A pair of slip-on socks are handy when shoes are removed at the entrance. Keep a shoulder scarf in your bag if you are wearing shorts or short sleeves.
• A rickshaw ride through the bazaars of Chandni Chowk.
• Humayun's Tomb – Impressive mausoleum of red sandstone and white marble in a tranquil garden setting.  It is considered to be the inspiration behind the Taj Mahal.

Photo: Humayun's Tomb 

 Although Agra lies in neighbouring Uttar Pradesh, it is on Rajasthan’s border and usually included on Rajasthan itineraries. 

• Taj Mahal - spend the extra few dollars and visit at sunrise. It is a little less crowded and provides perfect light for photography. Skilled craftsmen from Persia, Turkey, France and Italy and some 20,000 labourers worked for 17 years to build the Taj. After a sunrise visit you can then return to your hotel for a late breakfast and a bit of rest before touring other areas of Agra or moving on to the next Rajasthan treasure. The Taj is open daily except on Friday.

• Photo: Author and sister at Red fort which is more like a walled imperial city dating back to the 15’th century. Three successive Mughal emperors - Akbar, Jehangir and Shah Jahan helped create this massive structure which contains Hindu and Muslim architecture   
• Craft shops - there are so many in Agra for tapestries, gemstones, and inlaid marble although these do exist in every large city in Rajasthan.

Time permitting a side trip to Fatehpur Sikri, ancient capital of Akbar is worth a stop to admire the ornate Mughal architecture. Consider a sun umbrella as there is little shade.  

Bharatpur is home to Keoladeo National Park, the largest waterbird sanctuary in the country. This is a UNESCO heritage site with over 375 species of resident and migratory birds.   While some merely stop enroute to other Rajasthan hotspots, an overnight is recommended to allow at least two separate visits. Suggest a rickshaw ride through in the morning, and then a late afternoon boat ride where you can get up close to large numbers of birds and their rookeries.

NOTE: It is great to travel on at least one train journey, and several routes in and through Rajasthan offer that option including the express train from Delhi to Agra, or a first-class ticket on the Bharatpur/Sawai Madhopur (Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve) route.

 

Ranthambhore National Park and Tiger Reserve is located approx. 4 hours by road or train from Bharatpur and/or 150 kilometers Southeast of Jaipur. It is a reliable and accessible place to look for tiger. With any luck one can also spot sloth bear, leopard, small jungle cats, jackal, hyena, species of deer and antelope, crocodiles, mongoose, rhesus macaques, langurs and an incredible variety of birds. It is worth booking at least three safaris (well in advance) to maximize your chances of spotting tiger and other wildlife.  

Photo: Ranthambhore tiger @T. MacIntosh

On your way to Japiur, it is well worth a stop at Abhaneri (near Dausa) and see the ancient Chand Baori stepwell, one of several sites designed as reservoirs that would fill during monsoon and store water for the droughts and summer dries. Abhaneri is one of the largest and deepest and most spectacular.

Photo: City Palace, Jaipur

Jaipur is also known as the pink city with so many sandstone structures. It has everything a timeless Rajasthan city acclaims - historic forts, numerous palaces, exquisite gardens, and shops selling jewels, handicrafts, quality paintings, rugs, and colourful clothing. Jaipur is worth 3 nights of your time to see all the gardens forts, temples, lakes, shops, and dining establishments.

• Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) whose 5 stories, 365 windows, and latticed balconies are viewed from the street.
• City Palace with outstanding Rajput and Mughal architecture and intricate décor, contained in various buildings and areas of the walled grounds. The Royal residence and museum are classics.
• Amber Fort is also a must see with its own grand décor and stunning waterfront setting.

, Photo: City Palace Udaipur

Udaipur in the Southern part of the state is well worth the added mileage if you have 3 nights to spare. It is one of the most iconic and captivating destinations in Rajasthan.

• Boat across Lake Pichola to get close to the majesty of the Lake Palace, rising like an island in the middle of the body of water. The site was made famous in the James Bond film Octopussy. The interior only open to guests of the now Lake Palace Hotel.
• The gorgeous Monsoon Palace was also featured in the Bond movie along with some of the other streets and palace settings.
• The City Palace might just be the most spectacular palace in the country. Built over 400 years it is really palaces inside palaces covering extensive real estate.  The location is equally impressive sitting high above Lake Pichola with panorama views from the upper balconies. There is also a museum here so ample time is needed to explore. 
• Saheliyon Ki Bari gardens is one of the many garden areas.
• Consider one of more day trips to trek in the low-lying Aravalli mountains that ring the city, to visit the Jawai Leopard Sanctuary, or the Jain temple in Ranakpur.

The Western route from Jaipur, also called the Desert Circuit leads you to cities like Pushkar, Jodhpur and Jaisalmer.

Pushkar lies approx. 2.5 hours west of Jaipur and is the site of the annual camel fair each November. At other times of the year the town delivers an abundance of cultural rewards. Whitewashed temples, some 500 of them and ghats line or are near picturesque Pushkar Lake. Hindu pilgrims gather on many evenings for a ceremonial aarti. Women in colourful saris stand out at the temples and as you stroll through narrow streets and alleys. The town is just 14 km away from another holy city Ajmer, where Hindu, Muslim, and Jain worshippers gather in the cities many spiritual sites.

Jodhpur – One can’t help but be impressed by Mehrangarh Fort standing above the city.  From the lofty heights here, you get a view of the vivid blue wash on the homes below. Like so many places in Rajasthan you can get temples and forted out, but the city has some notable sites.

• Jaswant Thada Cenotaph is one unique and historic enough to fit it.
• Umaid Bhawan Palace and museum is one of the best museums in Rajasthan with royal regalia, furniture, and paintings.
• Wander the streets and alleys of the old city, in contrast it to the newly built area of town. And dine on sumptuous local cuisine in local restaurants with desert ambience.
• If you enjoy birds, then visit Gudha Lake where a variety of large and small birds are seen from October to March. Or halfway to Jaisalmer in the Thar desert you can visit the demoiselle cranes in Keechan village.
• Girdikot or/and Sardar markets can keep you occupied for hours.
• Bihnoi village homestay. The city is on the outskirts of the Thar Desert, so a great place to see and experience the living desert cultures. Take a camel or jeep safari, and stay in a tented camp.

Jaisalmer – Jaisalmer lies along  the ancient trade route that connected India and its wealth of treasures with Persia and the Middle East, and Northern Africa. One will still find an air of intrigue and authenticity within the streets and bazaars. Jaisalmer Fort stands out as a crown atop the city and provides a beautiful contrast to the natural landscape of the Thar desert. Similar to Jodhpur, the city acts as a conduit to desert safaris and cultural connects  whether you stay in an atmospheric Havili, a Palace Hotel or a luxury tented camp.

Photo: Haveli in Jaisalmer