Many temples in Bagan have frescoes and statues were still visible or in place. This plethora of cultural treasures is scattered throughout a plateau by the Ayeyarwady River which magnifies its impact on those visiting. I remember my awe watching the sunrise high atop one of the temples. As the light of day intensified, additional temples became visible, revealing what must be the greatest concentration of ancient Buddhist structures on the planet. By foot, pony cart and bicycle – it was, and still is possible to temple crawl for days. I naturally assumed its cultural significance would have already earned it a place on the UNESCO heritage list.
On my return in 2017, I was however shocked on learning from Khin, my site guide, that Bagan was never on UNESCO’s world heritage list. Instead, Myanmar’s only inscribed site to the prestigious list of Who’s Who in heritage and cultural was Pyu Ancient Cities. I hadn’t heard of Pyu until I looked on UNESCO’s list to verify Khin’s claim. I discovered that the three Pyu ancient cities of Halin, Beikthano and Sri Ksetra were brick, walled and moated centres that flourished along the Ayeyarwady River for over 1,000 years between 200 B.C and 900 A.D.1 But none of these sites finds their way onto many tourism itineraries. In contrast Bagan is visited by the majority of visitors, some 1/2 million annually. My curiosity in these disparities triggered a dive into UNESCO policies and the peculiar case of Bagan. I discovered that Authorities applied for status in 1995.
The initial application had been submitted under General Than Shwe during the military junta’s rule when world-wide economic sanctions against the regime limited funding for archaeology and strained global partnerships. Instead of following the conditions, leaders of the era failed to detail a comprehensive management plan, allowed hotel development in too close proximity to the site, allocated insufficient funds, and hired less skilled artisans and architects to conduct restoration and conservation work. And when UNESCO representatives complained about shoddy restoration efforts that had ruined original art or construction, they were ordered out of the country. Efforts to restore and manage Bagan were left to untrained locals with very limited assistance from the skillset from neighbouring nations like India, Japan and China who had successfully navigated the UNESCO process several times.
Debates brewed between archaeological scholars, folks at UNESCO, and the Archaeology and National Museum Department of Bagan led to the suggestion that Bagan had not maintained authenticity, adequately protected or sufficiently managed this site. Approval for status was denied.
In 2011, the military junta was dissolved and a civilian elected Government was put into place. The Director-General of UNESCO returned to Bagan in August 2012, with a team of experts to launch new preservation and sustainable management efforts. UNESCO Myanmar worked alongside Bagan’s archaeological group to enhance their conservation and restoration skills. With new Government support and the UNESCO Myanmar team, a bid to re-apply for World Heritage status was made in 2017 and restoration efforts were continuing on the first group of 41 “priority monuments”.
Substandard modifications, ruined frescoes and new construction were evident at several of the temples I visited on my 2017 trip. Out of place best described the newly built 200-ft viewing tower complete with elevator and bar at the west end of the ancient city. But coupled with those detractions were outstanding areas of progress. Interpretive and directional signage, trained guides, and a multitude of restored monuments rekindled my sense of wonder. I returned to Boulethi and Shwe San Daw Pagodas for sunrise. The glistening golden dome of Shwe-zi-gon (recently re-gilded) and its temple filled courtyard was a place of daily worship. Dhamma-yan-gyi, largest of all the temples in Bagan, built during the reign of King Narathu in the 12th century was imposing as ever. Su-la-mani and Thatbyinnyu Temple, two architecturally impressive monuments built by King Narapatisithu in the 12th century were highlights. Although the frescoes of Su-la-mani are no longer accessible due to damages sustained in large earthquakes in 1975, and 2016, one can visit some of the 300 other temples that contain murals or frescoes detailing the religious history of the Kingdoms of the time.
In July 2019 I was ecstatic that seven new cultural sites were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list including Bagan.
But, the controversy with UNESCO and Bagan continues. A 2021 coup returned Myanmar to military rule. New turmoil surrounds the the Nation and the short-lived delight by UNESCO, local and international stakeholders is once again at risk. Without continued adherence to policies, a site faces the possibility of being de-listed. I continue to monitor UNESCO's list
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